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<rss version="2.0"><channel><title>Drylining blog</title><link>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/</link><description>Drylining across the UK: plasterboard walls and ceilings, dot-and-dab, metal stud partitions, insulated and acoustic boarding, taped and jointed or skimmed ready to decorate.</description><language>en-gb</language><item><title>Hanging a TV, shelves or kitchen units on plasterboard walls</title><link>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/hanging-tv-shelves-kitchen-units-on-plasterboard/</link><guid>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/hanging-tv-shelves-kitchen-units-on-plasterboard/</guid><description>Plasterboard on its own is fine for light items such as pictures, mirrors and small shelves using proper cavity fixings. Heavy or cantilevered loads, such as wall-mounted TVs on arms, wall cupboards, basins and radiators, should be fixed into timber noggins, plywood pattresses or the studs behind the board. The easiest time to plan this is before the boards go up.</description><category>How-to</category><pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2026 09:00:00 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Drylining a Victorian terrace: walls, lath ceilings and old brick</title><link>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/drylining-victorian-terraced-house/</link><guid>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/drylining-victorian-terraced-house/</guid><description>In a Victorian terrace, drylining is usually best on new partitions, overboarding sound lath and plaster ceilings, and lining badly damaged or uneven internal walls. On solid external walls it needs care, because modern boards can trap moisture in old brick. Fix any damp first, keep lime plaster where it is sound, and use a framed or breathable approach where moisture is a concern.</description><category>Homeowners</category><pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2026 09:00:00 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>10 common drylining mistakes and how to spot them</title><link>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/common-drylining-mistakes/</link><guid>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/common-drylining-mistakes/</guid><description>The most common drylining mistakes are too few adhesive dabs, missing continuous seals around edges and sockets, screws fixed too far apart or too deep, joints that are not taped, wrong boards in wet or fire-rated areas, and boarding over damp walls. Most can be spotted before decorating by tapping walls, checking joints in raking light and asking what boards and fixings were used.</description><category>Advice</category><pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2026 09:00:00 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Drylining a garage conversion: fire, insulation and damp</title><link>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/drylining-a-garage-conversion/</link><guid>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/drylining-a-garage-conversion/</guid><description>Converting a garage into a habitable room needs building regulations approval, and drylining does much of the work. Walls and ceilings are usually insulated and boarded with a framed or insulated board lining, the floor and wall bases are damp-proofed, and fire separation is checked where the garage meets the house or rooms above. Plan the lining with your building control body before work starts.</description><category>Homeowners</category><pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2026 09:00:00 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Plasterboard in bathrooms and showers: boards, tiles and weight limits</title><link>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/plasterboard-in-bathrooms-and-showers/</link><guid>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/plasterboard-in-bathrooms-and-showers/</guid><description>Moisture-resistant plasterboard suits general bathroom walls and ceilings, but for showers and wet rooms that will be tiled, a cement or tile backer board or a fully tanked system is the safer choice. Tile industry guidance generally limits tile plus adhesive on unskimmed plasterboard to about 32 kg per square metre, and on gypsum plaster to about 20 kg per square metre, so heavy porcelain or stone needs a stronger background.</description><category>Advice</category><pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2026 09:00:00 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Cracks and nail pops in plasterboard: causes and proper fixes</title><link>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/cracks-and-nail-pops-in-plasterboard/</link><guid>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/cracks-and-nail-pops-in-plasterboard/</guid><description>Hairline cracks and small popped screws in the first year are usually caused by new timber drying, the building settling and heating drying everything out. Long straight cracks along board joints, cracks that keep returning or boards that move usually point to missing tape, too few fixings or movement in the structure. Most can be fixed by refixing, retaping and refilling the joint properly.</description><category>How-to</category><pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2026 09:00:00 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Drylining for landlords: HMOs, flat conversions and quick turnarounds</title><link>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/drylining-for-landlords-and-hmos/</link><guid>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/drylining-for-landlords-and-hmos/</guid><description>For landlords, drylining is the quickest way to create new rooms, upgrade fire separation and reduce noise between lets. HMOs usually need fire-resisting walls and ceilings, typically 30 minutes, around escape routes and between rooms, and converting a house to flats brings in building regulations for fire and sound. Planning the specification with the council and building control first avoids costly rework.</description><category>Business</category><pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2026 09:00:00 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Splitting a room with a stud wall: what to check before you build</title><link>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/splitting-a-room-with-a-stud-wall/</link><guid>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/splitting-a-room-with-a-stud-wall/</guid><description>Before building a stud wall to split a room, check that each new room will have a window for light and ventilation, a safe escape route if it is a bedroom, heating, sockets and lighting, and enough floor space. Decide on the door position, wall thickness and sound insulation early. A simple non-structural partition in a house often needs no approval, but fire escape or ventilation changes can bring in building regulations.</description><category>How-to</category><pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2026 09:00:00 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Drylining in offices and commercial fit-outs: a client&#x27;s guide</title><link>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/drylining-offices-and-commercial-fit-outs/</link><guid>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/drylining-offices-and-commercial-fit-outs/</guid><description>In offices, shops and other commercial spaces, drylining is used to build metal stud partitions for meeting rooms, offices and stores, form bulkheads and MF ceilings, and upgrade fire and acoustic separation. A good fit-out starts with a clear specification for fire rating, sound performance and head detail, landlord approval where you lease the space, and a programme that keeps the business running.</description><category>Business</category><pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2026 09:00:00 +0000</pubDate></item><item><title>Drylining in winter: cold, damp and drying times explained</title><link>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/drylining-in-winter/</link><guid>https://drylining.org.uk/blog/drylining-in-winter/</guid><description>Drylining can be done all year, but in winter boards, jointing compounds and plaster skims need a dry, frost-free and reasonably warm building to perform properly. Most manufacturers advise against applying jointing materials or plaster in near-freezing conditions, and drying times can double in cold, damp weather. Keep boards dry, get the building weathertight first and use gentle background heat with ventilation, not fierce direct heat.</description><category>Seasonal</category><pubDate>Fri, 06 Nov 2026 09:00:00 +0000</pubDate></item></channel></rss>
