Dot-and-dab or metal stud? Choosing a drylining method
Updated 6 November 2026 · By the Drylining team
Short answer: Dot-and-dab bonds plasterboard directly to masonry with adhesive dabs, so it is the quickest and cheapest option for sound, reasonably flat brick or block walls and loses only about 25 mm of room. Metal stud uses a lightweight steel frame, costs more and takes more space, but suits uneven walls, new partitions, running services and adding thicker insulation.
Side-by-side comparison
| Dot-and-dab | Metal stud | |
|---|---|---|
| Typical cost (per m²) | £25 to £45 | £45 to £80 |
| Space lost | About 25 mm | Usually 60 mm or more |
| Uneven walls | Copes with small variations | Copes with large variations |
| New partitions | No | Yes |
| Room for services and insulation | Very little | Yes |
| Heavy fixings | Need specialist fixings | Need noggins or pattresses |
When dot-and-dab is right
- The wall is sound, dry brick or block
- The wall is reasonably straight
- You want the quickest, lowest-cost finish
- Room space is tight
When metal stud is right
- You are building a new wall or dividing a room
- The existing wall is badly out of line
- You need to hide pipes and cables
- You want thicker insulation or better sound reduction
Good practice with dot-and-dab
Run a continuous line of adhesive around the edges of each board and around openings and sockets. This helps reduce air leakage behind the board, which affects both heat loss and sound.
Related guides
- How much does drylining cost in the UK? (2026 guide)
- Types of plasterboard: which board goes where?
- How to choose a dryliner: questions to ask and red flags
- Soundproofing walls and ceilings with drylining: what really works
- Insulating solid walls from the inside: drylining, condensation and Part L
- Drylining and building regulations: fire, sound and thermal rules explained
- Drylining a room: how long it takes, what to expect and aftercare
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